This week I read Digging for Dirt: The Life and Death of ODB, an account of the rollercoaster sad, flamboyant, up and down life of Wu-Tang Clan rapper ODB. Author Jaime Lowe and publishing house Macmillan have been sued by ODB’s former manager Jarred Weisfeld, over allegedly libellous content. You can read a good article about the controversy here.

I can’t think of a suitable segue, not one that’s sufficiently respectful to ODB. However, assuming the book’s portrayal of the man is accurate, polite deference might not have been what he wanted. Nevertheless I’m going to break abruptly and move onto a completely different subject…

…clothes.

Davicore’s ‘site continues to go from strength to strength, with new offers and new brands coming in practically on a daily basis.

Have you checked out their Franklin Marshall range for an authentic American collegiate look? This turquoise blue V-neck is my favourite FM product on the ‘site and I love that you can scroll your mouse over the graphic and get a close up view of the item before you buy.

I’m also loving the new range of Old Glory polo shirts (remember, polo shirts are big for Spring/Summer 2010). With colourful, crisp graphics that evoke classic gentlemen’s sportswear and mod elements they are definite winners for summer with the added advantage of being 100% cotton and machine washable.

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Thank you to everyone who submitted positive comments about Davicore’s blog content – please keep them coming.

This week I thought I would jog your memory about some essential and easy to wear menswear trends for Spring/ Summer 2010. Draper’s Online predicts polo shirts, cardigans, V-neck knits and checks as big for the coming season.

Good news! Davicore’s online catalogue is crammed with a huge selection of items that tick all those boxes. I’ve already mentioned Voi Jeans poloshirts. You could also check out (excuse the clunky pun) the new-in shirt from Ritan and a very nice short sleeved Mish Mash shirt, which – added bonus – is currently on sale. Who said that being up to date on trends needed to cost an arm and a leg?

One of my favourite new additions to the Davicore catalogue is this cardigan from Aggressor, which combines the V-neck and cardigan trends and alludes to the military influences recently seen on menswear catwalks.

That’s all for this week. Have a good one.

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You may have the best, most stylish clobber in the world but unless you’re well groomed you’ll be letting yourself down.

So, just in time for Valentine’s Day, I am delighted to present an interview with the charming Carmelo Guastella, a male grooming expert who has worked with numerous celebrities including Sacha Baron Cohen and Rio Ferdinand. He has been profiled by Arena and GQ magazines amongst others. Carmelo recently took the time to share his experience and expertise with Davicore fans.

Carmelo, how did you find your vocation of male grooming expert?
When I was 9, in Sicily, my father told me it would be a good idea for me to acquire a skill that would allow me to earn a living. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do until I started visiting a friend’s father’s barber shop after school My friend taught me how to hold a brush and by the age of 11 I could shave and cut hair. I was financially independent. Things developed from there. I cut hair in the army, spent two summers working on The Emerald Coast and cut hair at top hairdressing salons in Turn. I wanted to work in the UK as I was born in Surrey so in 1999 I started working at The Refinery, in London. I now work independently in a more private atmosphere, just me and my clients. I also have an accountancy degree.

What are the essentials of male grooming?
Pay attention to the things people will see first. You will be judged by the quality of your hair and skin. Dry skin and shaving irritation will create a bad impression, as will a poor haircut. Make sure you are well shaved. As the beard and stubble are in at the moment, if you wear either, make sure that they are well groomed with a natural look rather than with strong, harsh lines. Stubble is up to a week’s growth of hair, a beard anything longer.

What in your opinion is great style?
Wearing clothes with confidence, knowing what suits you and staying up to date with current trends without being defined by them.

Can you suggest a simple 20 minute grooming routine for someone who doesn’t have much time?
Wash and condition your hair. Shave. Apply moisturiser. Trim excess hair from your nose, eyebrows and ears with scissors, clippers and safety scissors.

It’s coming up to Valentine’s Day. What would you suggest as a good grooming routine for a man who wants to impress his partner or date?
Start with a great haircut and a clean shave, or well groomed stubble. Smell nice, apply deodorant, exfoliate and use a self-tanning product without going orange.

What’s the secret to applying aftershave perfume? Do you just splash it on?
Don’t put it directly on your face. Spray it all over your body from a fair distance and dab on the neck area and pulse points.

How do you avoid ingrown hairs when shaving?
Shave with the grain, in the direction of hair growth. Do not shave every day; let stubble grow for three days. Make sure you use a soothing gel or moisturiser afterwards to repair any damage. Proper shaving technique is the key to avoiding ingrown hairs. Most men don’t know how to shave.

What are your most popular treatments at present?
My haircut and shave, which is almost half a facial. Also, my hair and scalp treatment, which addresses the condition of hair and scalp separate from the cut.

What are the essential products every man should have in his bathroom cabinet?
Shaving oil, to prepare the skin before shaving. As in all ventures in life, preparation is essential to a good shave. Also moisturiser, an exfoliator, eye gel and face wash.

To find out more about Carmelo or to book an appointment visit his web site

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This week I’m delighted to post an interview with English menswear designer Lou Dalton. After an apprenticeship in bespoke tailoring and pattern cutting, Lou gained a degree in menswear from the Royal College of Art. She then worked as a design consultant in Italy and London. The Lou Dalton brand was launched in 2005 and is now widely stocked across the UK and in Japan. Lou has also collaborated with TopShop and Rodnik.

1. As a designer, what led you to focus on menswear? 
It was a natural progression, I left school at 16 & started as an apprentice with a tailor back in my home town of Shropshire. The majority of the work was  Menswear shooting jackets. At that age you are incredibly impressionable. Menswear is far more of a challenge I believe.

2. What are some of your current inspirations?
The jacobite rebellion & the ban of tartan during 1745.

3. What are the ingredients of great style?
Being selective, balance of colour and confidence.

4. What advice would you give someone who can’t afford designer clothes but wants to develop a strong and authentic style of their own?
Be selective with what you purchase,. Folk often make the mistake of purchasing of the moment looks, often highstreet finds which often only last a few weeks. Invest in buying limited statement pieces that you can mix back with key basics like cheap t-shirts.

Good vintage is hard to find however, it is out there. Go for good cut and colour. When it comes to my own wardrobe I often think less is more. I have a fabulous single breasted jacket from Helmut Lang which I bought back in 2005, I still wear it to this day. It’s a classic fit and effortlessly cool. It has for sure now paid for itself.

5. Which designers, if any, have influnced you? Are there other creative disciplines which inform your work as a designer? What are they?
Not so much influenced but I admire Elbar Albaz, Dries Van  Noten, Early Margiela, Chanel. I think as a designer you look to all things creative for inspiration, from art, film, music etc. It’s capturing a moment, anything thought provoking I suppose. Most recently a trip to the Isle of Skye.

6. What’s the best way to wear your clothes?
With confidence and a smile on one’s face…

7. Choose your favourite piece from the Davicore catalogue and say why you chose it
The piece I like the most is the V-neck brightly coloured sweater by Fullcircle, designed by the Head of Menswear Alan Cook, who is a very dear friend….

8. What should no man’s wardrobe be without?
Lou Dalton of course…

To find out more about Lou Dalton’s subtly eccentric and beatifully made twist on classic, sportswear inspired mens’ clothing visit Lou Dalton’s web site.

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This week I borrowed a De la Soul double CD from my local library and listened to preview snippets of Mos Def songs from the i-Tunes store. My foray into rap and hip hop was prompted by a read of Know What I Mean?: Reflections on Hip Hop by Michael Eric Dyson.

It’s been a long time since I had a chance to take in De la Soul’s wit and charm. Revelations from Mos Def’s album The Ecstatic was brilliant (at least the 30 second segment I heard) and I think I may purchase it.

Onwards from Michael Eric Dyson, I found Born in The Bronx, a coffee table compendium of photographs and rare flyers documenting the birth of hip hop in the 1970s Bronx. there’s some great style on display in the book and I suggest you check it out if you have any inclination for an Old School Rap look or want to know more about the beginnings of a ground breaking and hugely influential musical movement.

In one photo I noticed a guy onstage in a short sleeved ribbed polo neck sweater with high waisted formal trousers and trainers. It’s a strong combination. Try the Full Circle Kruder black high neck sweater, brand new to Davicore. Cut the sleeves or just wear them long. You could add a thin gold chain too, over the polo neck.

Also try baggy white jeans or these flattering Mish Mash loose fit jeans , with grafitti-esque detailing on the back pocket, tucked into cowboy boots if you feel bold, with a buttoned up shirt under a V-neck sweater. I love this Voi Jeans striped V-neck sweater , also just in. Finish off with a shiny leather jacket and, as an alternative to cowboy boots, high top trainers.

Many of the characters documented in Born in the Bronx combine a lightweight windcheater worn a quarter zipped up over a shirt with formal trousers, trainers and a cap. Davicore has a wide selection of zip up jackets in an array of styles and materials to suit all budgets. A good zip-up windcheater is one of those staple items that never dates. I love this Pepe Jeans version and this electric blue offering from Voi Jeans which has the added advantage of being machine washable. Take a leaf out of the old schoolers’ book and add a funky belt buckle with your horoscope sign, name or another word spelled out in brass. Subtle or flamboyant, it’s up to you.

Finally, don’t forget Davicore’s accessories department for a Do Denim trucker cap to complete these looks.

All together now: Yes Yes, Y’all, to the Beat Y’all…

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If you can, get your hands on a copy of The Gentleman’s Guide by Bernhard Roetzel  It’s a veritable styling treasure trove crammed with everything you need to know about effective dressing from the right length of shirt sleeve to which shoes to wear with which outfits and for what occasion. The Gentleman’s Guide also contains tonnes of history and other useful and interesting information including detailed accounts of men’s hat styles from the Trilby to the Borsalino.

A timeless and versatile classic

A navy blue blazer is a brilliant investment that never dates and can be worn in many different ways. According to Roetzel, classic blazers come with gilt or brass buttons and go with straight cut jeans, beige chinos, corduroy trousers and gray flannels. You could pair one with blue straight leg jeans and loafers for a strolling around in summer look. 

Red trousers aren’t just for yachts

The Gentleman’s Guide also has a great section on sporting life. OK, so you may not want to be seen in a full tweed shooting outfit but you can incorporate sporty details into your wardrobe to very good effect. For example, although Roetzel insists that red cotton trousers may only be worn by individuals who have crossed the Atlantic on a yacht, a pair of red straight leg jeans or trousers with this brand new addition to the Davicore catalogue will take you anywhere.

The golf look can be adapted

Don’t forget the traditional golf garb, which you can customise and adapt to suit your purposes. The Gentleman’s Guide handily breaks it down into key components including a polo shirt, tartan or checked trousers and a V-necked cardigan. Pick up a rainbow selection of polo shirts like this one by Voi jeans that comes in a brilliant range of colours. It’s on sale at the moment so you can get one in every shade. It goes really well with a V-neck cardigan and baggy or wide leg jeans.

And the winner is…

My favourite outfit in The Gentleman’s Guide is probably Le Look Anglais, a Gallic interpretation of English leisure wear. To look like an immaculately rumpled professor in a French film wear soft, turned up corduroy trousers with a round neck sweater. Under the sweater add a subtly patterned shirt. Finish off the look with brown lace up shoes and good quality wool socks.

Research, research, research

The Gentleman’s Guide is proof that doing your research and memorising traditional guidelines about what looks good with what and why will give you an edge. Once you know the basics you can break the rules and innovate. Remember last week’s suggestion that a passionate interest in something will imbue you with automatic style? How about becoming an expert on men’s shirt collars or different variations of formal shoes? The more you learn the more you’ll be able to pass on by modelling an immaculate dress sense that other people will want to know about.

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Paul Newman

Last weekend I watched Torn Curtain by Alfred Hitchcock, starring Paul Newman and Julie Andrews. It’s a lesser Hitchcock effort in my opinion albeit with strong moments like the scene in a theatre where a pirouetting ballerina spots physicist Michael Armstrong (Newman) and his fiancée Sarah Sherman (Julie Andrews) in the audience as they’re making their escape from East Berlin.

I never paid Newman much attention as I always preferred Marlon Brando and James Dean. Researching this post though, I found myself impressed by his long record of humanitarian and philanthropic work and and his easy, all-American chic.

Reading about Paul Newman’s life and achievements confirmed to me that true panache requires commitment to values of some sort, a position, a moral code. Paul Newman and James Dean may have had wildly different passions and preoccupations but they both lived them to the full. And both men were, in their own ways, style icons.

I’m not suggesting you donate your entire pay check to charity but doing something you love to help others will dramatically up your chances of exuding flair and magnetism. Maybe you could channel your love of seventies police dramas into a fund-raising film-a-thon in your front room. Or become passionate about hyaenas and sponsor one. Use your natural talents and interests. Could your late night internet surfing habit translate into setting up a blog to inform and educate people about a particular issue, or to make them laugh? What about that sausage obsession? How about typing up your favourite sausage recipes and stapling them into handmade books to give out to strangers? You could document your efforts on video and become a You Tube star too. Rest assured that your enthusiasm and generosity will give you charisma that can’t be bought.

If you’re not up for any of that you could do a lot worse than copying Paul Newman’s pared down style. You can do your own research for ideas or check out this GQ shoot that recreated some of his best known images with a younger actor.

To get started try the following:

1. A short sleeved shirt with chinos or loose black jeans and loafers with ribbed white socks.

2. Fitted jeans with a denim shirt.

3. A wool V-neck sweater with a buttoned up shirt paired with chinos and plimsolls.

4. A plain, open-necked white shirt and fitted trousers

5. A cowboy hat and aviator sunglasses

To help you bring out your inner Butch Cassidy check out Davicore’s catalogue for most of the above items. Share your gifts with the world too if you can, and help make it a kinder place. Style excellence will follow naturally.

Aline

DISCLAIMER

Images are used for entertainment purposes only. If you own an image that appears on this blog and wish to have it removed please contact me at aline@aduriaud.com and I will do so immediately.

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This week, in between scouring the internet for inspiration, I read The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake, a dense but accessible account of the parallel careers and personal lives of legendary designers Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.  Drake tracks Laurent’s and Lagerfeld’s immense contributions to fashion and style from the sixties to the present day, providing a rich account of the heady and often unforgiving Paris haute couture universe they helped to shape.

While I was well aware of Yves Saint Laurent’s talent I had no idea how innovative Karl Lagerfeld was, and is. According to Drake his working methods prefigured the use of mood boards  and melting pot influences from street wear to history to fine art to celebrity culture. He also meticulously created and recreated his public persona and brand through clothes, accessories and attitude. Love him or hate him he was a forerunner and architect of the mix and match, high low attitude to fashion, styling and celebrity image most of us take for granted today.

Full of compelling anecdotes and studded with larger than life style personages from muses to models to photographers to impressarios, The Beautiful Fall is a must-read for style junkies with a scholarly bent.

I also browsed through Modern Menswear by Hywel Davies, which profiles some of my favourite menswear designers including Rick Owens  and Bernhard Willhelm .  It’s a great resource for anyone who wants to get clued up on the aesthetics of contemporary male clothing without breaking the bank.

Inspired by my reading material and research I decided to present the Casual Dandy, one of my preferred looks for Spring. As building blocks I used some some favourite pieces from Davicore’s catalogue. Add or subtract as you wish.

 1. Start with a V-Neck cardigan.

I am a big fan of Nanny State’s clothes. I chose this simple and elegant black cardigan with sleeve detailing.  Or, keep it simple with their plain black cardigan.   The cardigan needs to be fitted and immaculately pressed.

 2. Add a jacket.

You want something with a Mod feel and a contemporary finish. Try this fantastic Firetrap Skylar jacket .  Its comfy shape and sophisticated wet look sheen give it a designer sportswear vibe that’s clever but not smug. It will carry you from the supermarket to an evening out and you can wear it with practically anything.

 3. Stir in some colour

Underneath the cardigan I recommend a crisp shirt in a bright shade like lemon yellow or citrus green.  Now add a neck scarf in a clashing shade. Try burgundy  with a yellow shirt or burnt orange (www.scarfworld.com) with a green one. A pattern will also work. Invent your own combinations. 

Or you could wear fingerless leather driving gloves .  Get rid of the scarf if you do as too many accessories will make it seem as though you’re trying too hard. You want this to look effortlessly eccentric, as though you just threw it together without thinking. 

 4. A pinch of luxury never hurts

Pull on a pair of excellent quality socks  for warmth and detail.

 5. And finally…

Finish the outfit with a pair of fitted new or vintage jeans, black for a pared down, sober statement and white or another pale shade if you want to stand out.

 To complete this look I recommend vintage style trainers, art school winklepickers or, for the ultimate contemporary dandy statement, tasselled preppie loafers or even monogrammed slip-on shoes. Check here (www.dandyism.com) for ideas. Each one will navigate the outfit into a particular direction so choose with care.

 If you’re crafty you could also customise a pair of plain slip on shoes or loafers  with studs, tassels or anything else.

I want to hear about your ideas too. Send ideas for your favourite unique looks incorporating items in the Davicore Store to aline@aduriaud.com

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The Davicore blog team is excited to announce that it is continuing to expand with the addition of our latest blogger Aline Duriaud.

Aline Duriaud has written about, and interviewed, artists and others for print and online publications in Europe and the USA. She also writes press releases and promotional material for the fashion industry. Aline has directed and screened art videos, published short fiction and worked for a wide range of organisations. She is currently studying fashion journalism

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Now that party season’s over and the dust has settled into the crisp light of a new year and a new decade it’s prime time to inject some fresh colour into your wardrobe with key pieces that will update your look and carry you through the next twelve months in style. Before you do consider the following eight essential guidelines to effective dressing. Make them your bedrock and you won’t go wrong. Or, use some of them and ignore the rest, it’s up to you. True style is about following your instincts and, as Yves Saint Laurent once said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal”. Just make sure you stick to number two.

1. Wearing anything with confidence exudes style. Conversely, the most carefully orchestrated outfit won’t have an impact if you don’t feel comfortable. So, find clothes you love that fit well and that make you feel good.

2. Throw out any torn or holey items lurking in your drawers or wardrobe. It helps to wear clean clothes too. Wearing fresh smelling, well cared for clothing never goes out of style and will automatically lift your mood.

3. Break the rules. Try mismatched patterns, clashing colours, accessories that aren’t supposed to go together. How about a rustic poncho with impeccably polished shoes like these elegant Arena brogues from Base London ? Or pinstripe trousers with this Japanese print Mish Mash T-shirt?

4. Invest in good quality basics that will last. Once you have the basics you can layer them with statement pieces and accessories. You can’t go wrong with five well cut shirts, a pair of jeans, two pairs of formal trousers that will work from day to night, seven T-shirts, a coat, a fitted jacket, three sweaters, a pair of trainers, a pair of brogues and a casual shoe that can be worn at home or at work. And a suit.

5. Check out current menswear trends for ideas and inspiration. Daniel P. Dykes cites V-necks as a major 2010 Spring and Summer influence. Exaggerated shoulders, military influences and stripes are also big.

Haute couture designer creations don’t always translate into everyday wear but while it may be hard to pull off some of the more extravagant concoctions that unfurl on the catwalks of London, Paris, Milan and New York City, using seasonal details can infuse an outfit with a contemporary twist that makes you stand apart.

Check out this Duck and Cover V-neck cardigan or subtly rock the military look with this Two Stoned shirt with three quarter sleeves and epaulettes.

6. Look at photography and films for inspiration. The internet, your local video rental outlet and bookshop are full of free resource material to spark off your style re-inventions.

How about a combination of cardigan and polo neck a la sixties Michael Caine? All you need are thick rimmed glasses and a splash of crisp after shave to complete the effect. Or try a blazer with a bright scarf thrown over one shoulder for a Left Bank student look that’s always current.

7. Pick a signature item and build an outfit around it. This Nanny State vintage check shirt has a single black cuff that’s quirky in an understated, wearable way.

Also try their seriously elegant double breasted Warsaw sweater that will work with jeans and plimsolls and as the centrepiece of a dressier look. Or how about a pair of socks in electric purple or yellow with black suit?

8. Most of all, have fun!

© Aline Duriaud 2009

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